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Picking the right place to stay in Edinburgh on your first visit matters. Where you stay can sometimes make or break your experience.
I visited Edinburgh three times before moving here, and I’ve stayed in different places every single time.
Some were amazing experiences, some were decent. And after living here I know even more about the best and “worst” areas of Edinburgh.
The good news is, it’s very easy to get it right — most of Edinburgh is truly lovely and charming. The city centre is extremely walkable, and you can get almost anywhere easily on foot.
That being said, let’s elevate your trip with a place to stay that will be truly magical and just right for you.
Map of Best and Worst Places to Stay in Edinburgh
Comparison Chart of Places to Stay in Edinburgh
| Area | Distance from Edi Castle | Available Transport | How Charming? | How Crowded? | Biggest Attraction Nearby |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Old Town (Royal Mile) | 0 miles | Bus | Very | Somewhat | Palace of Holyroodhouse |
| Old Town (Grassmarket and the Rest) | 0.25 miles | Bus | Very | Somewhat | Victoria Street |
| New Town | 0.5 miles | Bus | Very | Somewhat | Georgian House |
| West End | 1 miles | Tram, bus | Very | Somewhat | Dean Village |
| Stockbridge | 1 miles | Bus | Very | Somewhat | Royal Botanic Garden |
| Edinburgh Airport Hotels | 7 miles | Tram, bus | None | None | Edinburgh Airport |
| Princes Street | 0.25 miles | Tram, bus, train | Somewhat | Very | Scott Monument |
| Haymarket | 1 miles | Tram, bus, train | None | Very | Johnnie Walker Experience |
| Portobello | 4 miles | Bus | Very | Somewhat | Portobello Promenade |
| Leith | 3 miles | Tram, bus | Somewhat | Somewhat | Royal Yacht Britannia |
FYI: New 5% Visitor Levy
Edinburgh has become a popular place to visit, and so the city has implemented a visitor levy (tax) of 5% added onto all visitor overnight accommodation, for the first 5 nights’ stay.
This applies starting on stays from 24 July 2026 onwards.
For more details, see the official Edinburgh City Council website.
Breakdown of the Best Places to Stay in Edinburgh and Why
Old Town (the Royal Mile)
Let’s start with my number one recommendation of where to stay in Edinburgh on your first visit: Old Town, and specifically, the Royal Mile.
It will 100% be the best place to experience all of Edinburgh’s charm and magic.
Pros, or Why It’s Right for You
- Centre of the action (and charm). You’ll be right in the centre of everything, all the popular attractions, and surrounded by medieval buildings and the hustle and bustle of the Royal Mile.
- Truly beautiful and historic area. Might as well stay here to soak in all of the beauty of the Royal Mile as much as you can while you’re here.
Cons, or Why This May Not Be Right for You
Staying right on the Royal Mile, while convenient, will also mean noise and crowds.
However, some sections of the Royal Mile are not as crowded and noisy as others. For example, if you stay farther down towards the Palace of Holyroodhouse, you’ll have a quieter experience, getting the best of both worlds.
Recommended Hotels on the Royal Mile:
- The Witchery by the Castle
- Royal Mile Suites by the Castle
- Old Town Chambers, Autograph Collection
- Radisson Blu Hotel, Edinburgh City Centre
- Leonardo Royal Hotel Edinburgh (near a close that connects to Royal Mile)
Old Town (Grassmarket and the Rest of It)
Grassmarket, a neighborhood in Old Town close to the Royal Mile, is my second best recommendation of where to stay in Edinburgh on your first visit.
I stayed here my second visit to Edinburgh and completely fell in love with the city and the views.
Pros, or Why It’s Right for You
- Castle views and lots of charm. Grassmarket has incredible views of Edinburgh Castle as well as all the medieval charm of the Royal Mile.
- Amazing nearby restaurants and cafes. Plus, Mary’s Milk Bar (with amazing gelato) is here along with a cat cafe (with cute cats sitting in the window to stare at as you pass by). What more can you ask for?
- Less crowds. Grassmarket, and other parts of Old Town, are not as crowded as the Royal Mile, which is really nice!
Cons, or Why This May Not Be Right for You
I honestly don’t have any cons to report about Grassmarket, except that it may be a little too far from the train station and the tram. However, the walk to/from is lovely, and I found it well worth it.
Recommended Hotels in Grassmarket:
- Apex Grassmarket Hotel (castle views)
- Apex City of Edinburgh Hotel (castle views)
- Doubletree by Hilton Edinburgh City Centre (castle views)
Recommended Hotels in Old Town:
- Market Street Hotel
- Hotel Du Vin & Bistro
- The Caledonian Hotel (castle views)
- Sheraton Grand Hotel (castle views)
- Leonardo Royal Hotel
- Motel One Edinburgh-Royal
- The Scotsman Hotel (luxury)
New Town
Don’t let the name fool you, New Town is full of historic buildings, some over 300 years old. It was built for the wealthy citizens of Edinburgh who tired of Old Town, back in the 1700s.
And today, it’s one of the most beautiful areas of Edinburgh.
Pros, or Why It’s Right for You
- Gorgeous architecture. If it’s possible, New Town may be even more beautiful than Old Town. The Georgian architecture is truly stunning.
- Considerably less crowds. Compared to Old Town, New Town feels like a ghost town. There are way less people on the streets and it’s much quieter at night.
Cons, or Why This May Not Be Right for You
It may be too quiet or too far from Old Town for some people. To get up to the Royal Mile requires trekking up the hill every day, which is not for the faint of heart.
Recommended Hotels in New Town:
- The Old Waverly Hotel (castle views)
- The New Town Hotel
- Hotel Indigo Edinburgh by IHG
- Tigerlily Hotel
West End
I stayed in the West End on my first visit to Edinburgh, all those years ago, and so I’ll always hold it close to my heart.
It’s one of the best places to stay for first timers who like to retreat to a quieter area when the day is done.
Pros, or Why It’s Right for You
- Georgian architecture. It’s a beautiful area with Georgian architecture, similar to New Town, but a bit farther away (even less crowds).
- Nearby transportation. There’s a tram stop near the West End, making it easy to head down to Princes Street (a 4-minute ride) and trek up to the Royal Mile.
Cons, or Why This May Not Be Right for You
Like with New Town, the West End may be too quiet or too far from Old Town for some people. To get up to the Royal Mile requires trekking up the hill every day, which is not for the faint of heart.
I also remember struggling to find cafes and grocery stores during my stay in the West End. Though, now, I see quite a few down Shandwick Place, so I think I just didn’t know where to look at the time.
Recommended Hotels in the West End:
- B+B Edinburgh
- The Bonham
- Edinburgh Thistle Hotel
- Eleven Stafford Street Townhouse
- The Resident Edinburgh
Stockbridge
My last recommendation is to stay in Stockbridge, which is even farther away, just past New Town.
Pros, or Why It’s Right for You
- Lots of charm. It’s more of a prestigious residential neighborhood, but it’s so charming that staying here will be a one-of-a-kind experience.
- Lots of shops and cafes. You won’t be at a loss for options as Stockbridge has so many cafes and shops. There’s also a Stockbridge Farmers Market every Sunday!
Cons, or Why This May Not Be Right for You
Since Stockbridge is farther away from the city centre, it may take longer to get back to Old Town.
There are buses, though, that can take you to Princes Street or the Royal Mile in less than 20 minutes.
Recommended Hotels in Stockbridge:
Breakdown of the Places to Avoid in Edinburgh and Why
First of all, I don’t think any of these areas are that bad. I mean, I have stayed in one of these areas myself. They’re just not ideal, especially if it’s your first visit to Edinburgh.
But if it turns out you have to stay in one of these places, for one reason or another (priced out of other areas or it’s the most convenient location for you), I’ll also share how you can make the most of it.
Edinburgh Airport Hotels (Inconvenient)
There are several hotels right next to the Edinburgh Airport, which sounds very convenient. However the Edinburgh airport is 7 miles away from Edinburgh Castle. It’s a half-hour commute into the city centre every day just to explore.
I know firsthand because I stayed at the Moxy Edinburgh Airport when I was visiting in August (high festival season) and every other hotel in the city was way out of my price range.
So I sucked it up and took the 30-minute tram ride every day to get to the city centre, and, you know what, it was fine. It wasn’t ideal, but it worked.
Pros, or Why It’s Right for You
- It’s cheaper than hotels in the city centre.
- It’s conveniently right next to the airport if you have a very early or late arrival/departure.
- It’s also near the tram, which does head right to Princes Street (in 30+ minutes), so you’re able to get places (eventually).
Cons, or Why This May Not Be Right for You
Far from the city centre. As mentioned, the airport is far from the city centre, which means popping back into your hotel for a rest or change of clothes becomes infinitely more difficult. It essentially means an hour or more lost out of your day.
Have to plan ahead and wake up early. To make the most of your time, you’ll have to wake up early and pack everything you’ll need. Don’t plan to come back until the evening (which is what I ended up doing during most of my stay).
No nearby restaurants. Additionally, there are no restaurants nearby (except for what the hotel offers), so if you want an easy dinner, you gotta hop on the tram and go down to a nearby shopping centre (such as Hermiston Gait Retail Park). Your options will not be very abundant. For example, I ended up eating at Tesco and Costa Coffee most days.
Recommended Hotels near the Edinburgh Airport:
- Moxy Edinburgh Airport (where I stayed)
- DoubleTree by Hilton Edinburgh Airport
- Hampton By Hilton Edinburgh Airport
- Holiday Inn Express Edinburgh Airport by IHG
Princes Street (Convenient, but Crowded)
Princes Street is a famous street most visitors have likely heard of before even stepping foot in Edinburgh.
But is it worth staying there?
Pros, or Why It’s Right for You
- Castle views and bagpipes. Princes Street has incredible views of Edinburgh Castle and you’ll hear the sound of bagpipes coming from some direction at some point on the street.
- Transportation links. Every bus, tram, and train seems to stop at Princes Street, so wherever you are headed, you can most likely get there from Princes Street. This is perfect for those planning to do a lot of day trips while in Edinburgh. What better place to stay than right by the Waverley Train Station?
Cons, or Why This May Not Be Right for You
Okay, I have a bone to pick with Princes Street, because why is it so crowded all of the time?
Since living in Edinburgh, I’ve had to walk down Princes Street more times than I can count, and the amount of crowds on this street stresses me out every single time.
If you get stressed in crowds, staying on Princes Street may not be the right fit for you.
Recommended Hotels on Princes Street:
- Mount Royal Hotel Edinburgh by The Unlimited Collection (castle views)
- Apex Waterloo Place Hotel
- Hotel Indigo Edinburgh Princes Street by IHG
- Hilton Edinburgh Carlton
- The Balmoral Hotel (luxury)
Haymarket (Convenient, but Crowded)
Haymarket is not known for its charm or even its cleanliness. It’s more a grungy neighborhood, which is why it’s on my list of places to avoid.
Pros, or Why It’s Right for You
- Transportation options. While not the prettiest area, it is conveniently near a major tram stop and it has its own train station. Many buses also stop at Haymarket, helping you get wherever you’re going (likely away from Haymarket).
- Close to the city centre. It’s also only a stone’s throw away from Princes Street, just past the West End. So it won’t take you long to get to Old Town or New Town.
Cons, or Why This May Not Be Right for You
Haymarket is, well, not the nicest area in Edinburgh. Grungy is probably the best word to describe it.
It’s also pretty crowded with people passing by, going to and fro.
While convenient, I wouldn’t recommend staying here on your first visit to Edinburgh.
Recommended Hotels in Haymarket:
Leith (Beautiful, but Inconvenient)
I’ve come to love Leith since living in Edinburgh and visiting it a few times. It’s a charming residential neighborhood, well away from all the tourists.
Pros, or Why It’s Right for You
- Beautiful waterfront. Wandering around Leith, you’ll walk by all the shops and cafes near the Water of Leith. It’s such a beautiful place. (Speaking of restaurants, I highly recommend Alby’s for delicious and unique sandwiches!)
- Tram from Leith to the city centre. There’s a tram that can take you from Ocean Terminal in Leith directly to Princes Street. I’ve taken this exact tram ride and can tell you it takes about 20 minutes. Not bad.
Cons, or Why This May Not Be Right for You
Leith may be a good place to stay on someone’s second or third visit to Edinburgh, when they’re wanting to see something different. But I think it’s a bit too out of the way for someone’s first time in Edinburgh.
Recommended Hotels in Leith:
Portobello (Beautiful, but Inconvenient)
Like Leith, Portobello is incredibly charming and beautiful (particularly on a sunny day) but it’s very far away from the city centre and all the attractions in Edinburgh.
Pros, or Why It’s Right for You
- Beautiful beach views. The beach at Portobello is beautiful (if a little cold), and walking down the Promenade is a top-tier experience.
- Lots of shops and cafes. On Portobello High Street, there are so many options for restaurants, cafes, and shops. I particularly love the Portobello Bookshop and Nixos Greek Street Food.
Cons, or Why This May Not Be Right for You
It can take at least 30 minutes to get to Princes Street from Portobello, so you’re very far away from most of the top things to do in Edinburgh.
Portobello, like Leith, may be a good place to stay on someone’s second or third visit to Edinburgh, when they’re wanting to see something different. But I think it’s a bit too out of the way for someone’s first time in Edinburgh.
Recommended Hotels in Portobello:
What’s Right For You?
What are your priorities? What are your must-see attractions? Do you like to be in the quieter areas? Do you need to be near the train station or the tram? Do you want to be right in the middle of the action? Do you want a view?
If You Want to Be Right in the Action… Try Old Town, the Royal Mile, or Princes Street
If You Want a Quieter, Less Crowded Area… Try the West End, Stockbridge, Portobello, or Leith
If You Need to Be Near the Waverley Train Station… Try Princes Street or Old Town
If You Need to Be Near the Tram… Try Princes Street, Haymarket, Leith, or the West End
If You Want a Castle View… Try Grassmarket or Princes Street
When Is The Best Time to Visit Edinburgh?
Honestly, whenever you have the time!
Edinburgh is lovely year-round, but it’s especially beautiful in autumn (the changing leaves) and spring (cherry blossoms!).
You should also be aware that August is festival month — so if you’re not specifically coming for the festivals, avoid August. It will be extremely crowded and overpriced.
In December, the Christmas market is set up in Princes Street and Hogmanay events take place before new year’s. It’s a lovely time in Edinburgh, but it can be more expensive, so definitely book early if you plan to visit during the holidays.
What to Pack to Visit Scotland
Warm, waterproof wear
If you’re visiting Scotland during its cold and rainy season (almost every month of the year besides a few weeks in summer), you should definitely bring a warm waterproof jacket and waterproof walking boots.
- This waterproof jacket and these waterproof boots I took with me to Scotland helped us explore no matter the weather. We walked around Edinburgh in the rain and snow, during foggy mornings and chilly evenings, and enjoyed it all. Be prepared for rainy weather, and dress for it, so you don’t miss out.
- Also consider bringing fleece-lined leggings — I loved this pair I packed!
Favorite travel essentials
- I really recommend these compression packing cubes. They’re very thick and durable and allow you to pack more than you expect.
- I also love this travel backpack that opens like a suitcase, fits almost as much as a carry-on, and has tons of pockets as well as a strap to attach to your luggage handle. It makes traveling so much easier and more organized. It also fits nicely under the airplane seats.
- I bring this AirFly receiver for AirPods with me on long-haul flights, so I can connect to the plane’s video screen with my own AirPods.
- I no longer hop on a flight without wearing my Sockwell compression socks because they really do help relieve/prevent leg cramps from sitting so long in one place. I have the lotus pattern, but there are other patterns to choose from. See all sock patterns in the Sockwell storefront.
Other Posts to Help You Plan Your Trip to Scotland
Edinburgh
- 3 Day Edinburgh Itinerary: Ultimate Guide for First Timers
- 18 Best Views of Edinburgh Castle: From the Vennel to Cafe Windows
- 11 Hidden Closes on Edinburgh’s Royal Mile (with Map!)
- Is There an Underground City in Edinburgh? (Guide + Map)
Day Trips from Edinburgh
- Best Outlander Tour in Scotland: Which Sites Are Worth Seeing?
- Why Visit Inchcolm Abbey and Island in Scotland
- Day Trip to Hopetoun House from Edinburgh (Is It Worth It?)
- Is a Day Trip to the Scottish Highlands from Edinburgh Worth It?
- How to See Hairy Coos in Pentland Hills Edinburgh (and an Alpine Coaster)
- Day Trip to Craigmillar Castle in Edinburgh Scotland
Thank you for so much detail I can’t wait to check out all the areas you have mentioned!