What to Do for a Day in Magome Japan

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Most people walk through Magome on their way to hiking the Nakasendo Trail, an old samurai route from the Edo period in Japan.

This was my plan, as well, until the day arrived near the end of my two-week trip to Japan, and I realized my legs were way too tired and sore to hike miles through a mountainside.

So, instead, I spent the day just exploring the town of Magome, slowly meandering through its old shops, on its stone paths and past its water mills.

I loved Magome so much and was so glad I made the effort to visit even though I wasn’t hiking. Of course I hope to return someday to properly hike the Nakasendo Trail especially now that I know how beautiful this region of Japan is.

Whether you are planning to hike the Nakasendo Trail or you just want more information about what to do in Magome, here’s my guide to spending a day in beautiful Magome.

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About Magome Japan

Magome, also known as Magome-juku (juku meaning “post town”), is a traditional Edo-period town on the Nakasendo Trail, nestled in the mountains of the Kiso Valley.

It’s the perfect place to visit if you want to see a truly beautiful and historical Japanese small town that’s been impressively restored to its former glory.

Unfortunately, not many buildings are original, as there were two great fires in the late 19th century that destroyed much of town.

However, the restoration process was done remarkably well as Magome is full of charm and beauty at every turn. (P.s. Magome is not a tourist trap! It’s a historic small town well worth visiting.)

There’s one major road that runs through the whole town of Magome, and it’s the Old Nakasendo Trail. Off of this road, you’ll find nearly every shop, cafe, and business.

What does Nakasendo mean? Nakasendo translates to “central mountain route” — and it’s the road the samurais once traveled on heading from Kyoto to Tokyo in the Edo period.

What can you do with a day in Magome? Let’s get into it.

girl wearing a backpack standing next to a water wheel in Magome — Old Nakasendo, Magome

How Much Time to Spend in Magome Japan

Magome is quite small, so you can easily see and do everything in just a few hours, depending on your pace.

I arrived in Magome at around 11 a.m. and left around 3 p.m., spending about four hours there.

It was a slow exploration of town, not fast-paced at all, and I feel I got to do and see the whole town, twice over.

girl wearing a backpack standing on a path in Magome

Is Magome Crowded?

I didn’t find Magome to be very crowded at all!

I visited during peak times (11 a.m. to 3 p.m.), when it was most crowded, but it was not that bad, especially compared to other tourist spots in Japan.

You’re not elbowing your way through crowds, just strolling along town.

I found it to be quite pleasant and a nice break from crowded Kyoto.

10 Things to Do in Magome Japan

1. See the Water Wheels

Watermills are a symbol of Magome-juku, and there are plenty of them in town.

Magome is built on a slope, so a small canal runs down the side of the stone path on the Nakasendo Trail. Water runs down, powered every now and then by a water wheel.

Whether they are still functional or not, the water wheels are gorgeous and definitely worth seeing.

2. Visit the Magome Masugata Rest House

A traditional resthouse is right behind one of the biggest water wheels in Magome, at the strategically sharp L-shaped turn in the road (masugata).

You’re free to wander inside, where you can see the inner workings of the water wheel as well as the traditional setup with a sunken hearth (irori) and hanging kettle (jizaikagi).

The large water wheel outside is part of a micro hydropower system that lights and powers the rest house.

a water wheel near a stone path by traditional buildings in Magome — Water Wheel, Magome

a sand pit in the middle of a traditional room with a kettle hanging down from the roof — Magome rest house

3. Stop at the Tourist Information Center for Brochures

Be sure to stop at the Tourist Information Center in Magome because here you can obtain brochures and information about Magome and the Nakasendo Trail.

They offer brochures in English as well as Japanese, and there are maps, too, which is always good to have on hand.

There are also stamps here for you to stamp your goshuin books. I actually found quite a lot of stamps all over Magome, which was fun to collect.

Lastly, there are public restrooms here, which is always good to know about.

4. Have Coffee and Toast at Hillbilly Coffee

You can’t pass by a cafe selling toast without stopping in to order some. And I was so glad to stumble upon Hillbilly Coffee. The owners speak both Japanese and English, and they were incredibly friendly.

The toast, of course, was divine — as was all the toast in Japan (how do they make it so thick and fluffy?). I also ordered a chai here and loved it.

Hillbilly Coffee is a great first stop in Magome, especially if you hadn’t had breakfast yet or just need some extra caffeine.

a plate of 4 pieces of toast with a small cup of butter and jam — Hillbilly Coffee, Magome

a sign that says "Hillbilly Coffee" in front of the cafe in Magome — Hillbilly Coffee, Magome

5. Visit the Toson Memorial Museum

Toson Memorial Museum is the family home of a Japanese writer, Shimazaki Toson (1872-1943), who wrote two novels and three books of poetry.

I discovered this museum while walking through Magome and hadn’t heard of it otherwise. Intrigued, I went inside.

They offer an English brochure and map for foreigners to learn more about Toson, the writer who lived here, and there’s also a film about his life playing on a loop in one of the rooms.

The property is beautiful with several libraries and a garden. Most of the original buildings were burnt down in the great fire of 1895, except the grandparents’ retreat.

In 1947, the people in Magome-juku built the Toson Memorial Museum to honor Toson’s life and legacy.

Japanese paper sliding doors open to reveal red trees and a yard outside — Toson Memorial Museum, Magome

a traditional Japanese house in Magome — Toson Memorial Museum, Magome

6. Visit the Local Historical Museum

The Magome Wakihonjin Museum displays furniture and supplies from the Edo period that were saved from the great fire in 1860 and 1895. It also gives information into local history as well as life in the Edo period in Magome.

The museum was opened in 1964, and the building is a reconstruction of the wakihonjin (sub-headquarters) that stood there since the 1700s.

In the Edo period, a wakihonjin was a place for feudal lords and officials to stay and rest. The wakihonjin had to be spacious enough to welcome a large number of people.

At Magome, there were 13 rooms in the wakihonjin (before fire destroyed the building). The head lived there, and then later his direct descendants did.

Most of the artifacts on display in the museum have both Japanese and English descriptions, so foreigners can learn about the history, too. It’s a small museum and not too popular — we were the only ones there when I visited — but it’s still worth a visit.

an exhibit inside a museum showing a traditional samurai outfit in Edo period — Magome Wakihonjin Museum

an exhibit inside a museum showing a tradition dining setup in Edo period — Magome Wakihonjin Museum

7. Eat Soba for Lunch

Soba is a specialty of the region, and you’ll notice a lot of restaurants selling soba noodles as you walk through Magome.

Most soba noodles are homemade and absolutely delicious. I ordered a bowl of plain noodles at Daikokuya Sabo and loved it, especially the broth.

Recommended soba restaurant: Daikokuya Sabo (大黒屋茶房)
Address: 4255 Magome, Nakatsugawa, Gifu 508-0502, Japan

8. Try Shave Ice or Other Treats for Dessert

There are several cafes you can try in town, offering all sorts of treats and dessert.

We tried the chestnut ice cream and shaved ice and loved it.

Magome is also known for its gohei mochi (grilled mashed rice covered in sesame and nuts) and kurikinton (Japanese chestnut cake sweets).

Recommended Cafes:

Ontaya
Kanameya
Cafe Kappe
Omiya

Specialty Treats to Try:

Shave ice
Gohei mochi (grilled mashed rice covered in sesame and nuts)
Kurikinton (Japanese chestnut cake sweets)
Chestnut ice cream

a bowl of soba noodles with chopsticks inside and a spoon on a table — Daikokuya Sabo (大黒屋茶房)

a plate of shave ice in a glass bowl with a cup of tea nearby on a wood table

9. See the Viewpoint at the Magome Jinbakami Observatory Deck

As you walk through Magome, you’ll notice the incline and it all leads up to the Magome Jinbakami Observatory Deck.

This view is one of the highlights of Magome, the payoff for climbing up the hill. Here, you’ll see a beautiful view of the Kiso Valley, Mt. Ena, and the Nakasendo Trail.

Centuries ago, from this vantage point, people once watched their enemies coming from the west, so you can almost imagine yourself doing the same.

There are benches to sit down and take in the sights, and this is also a popular spot for photos.

a girl with a backpack looking out at a view of the valley — Magome Jinbakami Observatory Deck

a view of the road and nearby rolling hills covered in trees — View from the Magome Jinbakami Observatory Deck

10. Shop for Souvenirs

You’ll find unique souvenirs in Magome, and there are lots of shops to browse as you stroll your way through Magome.

One specialty of Magome is its high-quality wooden products, so you’ll find lots of options — from wooden bowls to wooden figures and everything in between.

Other Things to Do in Magome with More Time

On the other side of Magome, the Old Nakasendo Trail continues toward Ochiai into what looks like just a common neighborhood.

Here, you’ll find:

Magome Castle ruins
Suwa Shrine
Lord Masaki Shimazaki Memorial Monument
Original sign posts

Map of Things to Do in Magome

How to Get to Magome from Nagoya

Step 1: Take the JR Shinano Limited Express train from Nagoya to Nakatsugawa Station (50 minutes).

The first step is to take the JR Shinano Limited Express train from Nagoya Station to Nakatsugawa Station.

You can check timetables for your trip via Google Maps/Apple Maps. I used Apple Maps and found it to be accurate.

You must get TWO tickets for each person when riding the Limited Express train from Nagoya to Nakatsugawa — a limited express ticket and basic fare ticket.

You can book your tickets one of two ways:

Easiest option: Pay with IC card and cash on board the train
Buy tickets online or at the station

Easiest option: Pay with IC card and cash on board the train

I tried to figure out the ticket process for the Limited Express train until I spoke with an employee who advised me to just tap into the station with an IC card (which covers the basic fare ticket), sit in an unreserved car, and pay the attendant on the train the extra fare (for the Limited Express ticket) with cash when he came around checking tickets.

I’ll give you the same advice if you’re looking for the easiest and quickest way to get on the train.

It’s not a crowded train route, so sitting in an unreserved car is totally fine.

Buy tickets online or at the station

You can purchase tickets for the JR Shinano Limited Express online on the JR West website or at the station. If you’re booking online, under “Specify Train” select “HIDA/SHINANO(Osaka/Nagoya ~ Takayama/Matsumoto/Nagano).”

Retrieve tickets at the station. Either way, you will still need to retrieve your tickets from the ticket machine at the station (yes, even if you book online). This was extremely inconvenient and confusing, so be prepared by doing as much research ahead of time as possible.
Find the right ticket machine. At Nagoya Station, you’ll have to look for a ticket machine with a blue square that says “5489.” There was only one that was working when I visited, and it had a long line. At Nakatsugawa Station, for your return trip, there was no line as it’s a much smaller station, so it was less stressful to figure out the ticket machine.
Print out instructions on retrieving tickets to have on hand. Here are the instructions for retrieving tickets reserved online. And here are the instructions for purchasing tickets directly at the station.
Don’t be afraid to ask for help. Still confused? In case you are still confused, be ready to type some questions into Google Translate to ask an employee.

Step 2: Take the Magome Bus from Nakatsugawa Station to Magome

Once you arrive at Nakatsugawa Station, you’ll still need to reach Magome, which is only about 6 miles away. Luckily, there is a bus that will take you directly there!

Bus fare: 800 yen (have exact change on you or close to it)

How long is the bus ride? About 25 minutes (6 miles)

Depart: You’ll depart from the bus terminals in front of the Nakatsugawa Station. There are only 3-4 terminals/platforms, and each one has a sign that lists the routes/timetables. One should say “Magome,” and that’s the one you’ll be taking.

How often do buses run? Expect a bus about every hour.

What to do while waiting: If your arrival on the train doesn’t quite line up with the bus schedule, don’t worry. There is a huge souvenir market right next to the bus terminals called Nakatsugawa Souvenir / Tourist Information Center. Inside, there are dozens of tables selling locally made products. Lots to browse while you wait!

Arrival: You’ll be dropped off in front of the Magome bus station, very near to the Old Nakasendo Trail, and this is where you’ll depart on your way back.

How to plan your bus trip: The bus is run by Kitaena kotsu, but their website (including timetables and fares) is all in Japanese. So I recommend using Apple Maps/Google Maps to plan your route. I used Apple Maps and found it to be accurate.

a girl running down the stone path surrounded by traditional houses and red trees — Magome

Recommended Group Tours to Magome from Nagoya

If you’d rather not bother with figuring out the public transportation on your own, I understand. There is still a way to visit Magome by joining a group tour.

Here are some recommended group tours departing from Nagoya:

Where to Stay While Visiting Magome for a Day

Stay in Magome

I honestly wish I had stayed in Magome a few nights and spent more time there. It’s something I will do differently next time because Magome and the Kiso Valley are absolutely beautiful.

Recommendations about where to stay in Magome:

Tajimaya (Japanese style inn)
Magomechaya (guesthouse)

Stay in Nagoya

I stayed in Nagoya for two nights while visiting Magome, as I was planning to also visit Ghibli Park and then go on to Takayama.

Staying in Nagoya is a good option if you have other places you want to see nearby and only want to spend one day in Magome. A day trip to Magome from Nagoya was really doable and pleasant. If we had left earlier, and been in better shape, we could have easily done the Nakasendo Trail between Magome and Tsumago and been back in time for dinner (though it would have definitely been a more jam-packed day).

Where I stayed: I stayed at the Lamp Light Books Hotel in Nagoya and really loved how clever and modern this hotel is.

Pros: It has a book theme, includes a library and cafe (plus a free welcome drink), and the staff were all very friendly. It’s close to the Fushimi Station, which is just one stop away from Nagoya Station. Another plus about the Lamp Light Books Hotel is that it is right across the street from a 7-Eleven, so my smoothie machine obsession lived on another few days.

Con: The only con is that the room sizes are tiny, but we only stayed here two days so it wasn’t much of a concern.

the Lamp Light Books Hotel sign lit up on the front of the hotel at night — Lamp Light Books Hotel, Nagoya

a view from up high in the hotel room showing the city of Nagoya with autumn trees at the nearby park — View from Lamp Light Books Hotel, Nagoya

What to Pack for Your Trip to Japan

Comfortable and convenient footwear

You’ll likely walk a lot while visiting Japan, so a good pair of walking shoes is a must. However, one additional recommendation is make sure your sneakers are slip-in.

Why wear slip-in sneakers?

Many traditional places in Japan require guests to remove shoes before entering. Shoes with a lot of laces are hard to get off. But slip-ins? A breeze.

Slip-in sneakers — I wore this pair of slip-in sneakers from Skechers my entire trip to Japan, and it was so convenient! I didn’t even have to sit down to take off my shoes, like everyone else did. My shoes just slipped right off. I also felt comfortable in these shoes despite walking 20,000 steps every single day.
Ankle socks — Be sure to wear ankle-covering socks with your shoes so you don’t get blisters with all that walking. I wore these Hanes ankle socks every day of my trip to Japan and didn’t get a single blister.

Favorite travel essentials

I really recommend these compression packing cubes. They’re very thick and durable and allow you to pack more than you expect.
I also love this travel backpack that opens like a suitcase, fits almost as much as a carry-on, and has tons of pockets as well as a strap to attach to your luggage handle. It makes traveling so much easier and more organized.
I bring this AirFly receiver for AirPods with me on long-haul flights, so I can connect to the plane’s video screen with my own AirPods.
I no longer hop on a flight without wearing my Sockwell compression socks because they really do help relieve/prevent leg cramps from sitting so long in one place. I have the lotus pattern, but there are other patterns to choose from, such as this cat pattern or this flower pattern. See all sock patterns in the Sockwell storefront.
For Americans, I recommend getting the Capital One Venture X credit card to relax and eat free food in select airport lounges. I’ve had my Capital One Venture X credit card for a few years now, and accessing airport lounges is my absolute favorite perk of the card. Every lounge is different, but most have a buffet available where you can eat and drink to your heart’s content. The annual fee of this card is high, but it evens out with the $300 annual travel credit and 10,000 anniversary miles you get (on top of lounge access and free TSA PreCheck or Global Entry)!