Well, is there an underground city in Edinburgh? Not quite. There are parts of Edinburgh that are underground, but there isn’t an entire underground city below Edinburgh (as cool as that would be). You are able to tour these underground places, but where exactly are they and why are they underground? Let’s get into the details of how and why you should visit Edinburgh’s underground world.
About the Underground Areas of Edinburgh
Underground, dark passageways, once home to the poor and nefarious, can still be accessed today. And I’d really recommend venturing into them on an underground tour.
There are two sections of Edinburgh that are underground and that you can visit: the South Bridge Vaults and Mary King’s Close. Both are in Old Town Edinburgh.
1. South Bridge Vaults
The South Bridge was completed in 1788 to connect Old Town to New Town. At first, the bridge was open, where people could pass underneath, but soon shops were built on each side of the bridge.
History of the South Bridge Vaults: Why Are They Underground?
The bridge was filled in underneath with storage spaces, vaulted chambers four stories deep, now called the Vaults.
There are about 120 rooms, or vaults, under the South Bridge.
The shops used the storage spaces for only the first 30 years, eventually abandoning it because of poor air quality and dampness. Their luxury products, such as leather, wine, and books, were damaged in these storage spaces, and that was not good for business.
The Vaults weren’t left empty long as the poor and nefarious soon moved in.
Life in the Vaults in the early 1800s
The poorest of the poor turned the Vaults into temporary homes, which was not ideal because of the poor air circulation and lack of sanitation and space for cooking.
For lighting, they lit lamps with fish oil, leaving a horrible stench.
Most who lived in the Vaults had a shorter life expectancy, which is saying something as the life expectancy in Edinburgh at the time (18th century) was less than 30 years.
Criminal activity in the Vaults in the 1800s
Others used the Vaults as illegal gambling dens, illegal whisky distilleries and storage spaces for corpses.
Wait, corpses?
Body snatchers were rumored to use the Vaults to secretly transport recently dead bodies to the university medical school which needed cadavers (and paid well for them).
Imagine living in almost complete darkness with all that criminal activity going on. Not great.
The Vaults abandoned for over a century
The conditions in the Vaults were so terrible, they were eventually shut down and filled in with rubble sometime during the mid 1800s. They were forgotten for several decades until uncovered again in the 1980s, and then they were excavated in the 1990s.
During the excavation, signs of human life were discovered, including toys and bottles. Because the Vaults were abandoned for so long, and left untouched, they were pretty well preserved, like a time capsule, giving a unique glimpse into the lives of its former residents.
Today, you can take a tour to learn about life in the Vaults, their history, and all the stories that occurred (historical and ghostly).
It’s a truly one-of-a-kind experience, a must do while in Edinburgh.
How to Visit the South Bridge Vaults
The Vaults at South Bridge stretch from High Street to Chambers Street.
It’s not possible to visit the entire length of the underground Vaults, but you can visit certain sections.
Blair Street Vaults
A tour of the Blair Street Vaults will allow you to see 7-10% of the Vaults.
The Blair Street portion of the Vaults is entirely owned by Mercat Tours, so they are the only ones able to show you around this portion.
Mercat Tours Historic Underground Tour is a 75-minute tour that takes you into the Blair Street Vaults, a section of the South Bridge Vaults, and shares so many fascinating stories of life in Edinburgh underground. We did this tour and loved it.
Mercat also offers a ghost tour for those who are interested in a spooky experience.
Cowgate Vaults
Some walking tour companies, such as Auld Reekie Tours, will take you to other sections of the South Bridge Vaults, such as near Cowgate. Auld Reekie Tours offers a late-night terror tour of the Vaults in addition to their original Vaults tour.
Bars in the Vaults
There are a few bars in the Vaults that you can visit, such as Whistlebinkies and Bannerman’s Bar. Both play live music as well.
2. Mary King’s Close
Mary King’s Close is one of the buried closes in Edinburgh Old Town with a rich and layered history.
History of Mary King’s Close: Why Is Mary King’s Close Underground?
The story of Mary King’s Close is different from the Vaults. Its story starts earlier, when the Flodden Wall was completed in 1560.
The wall was meant to protect Edinburgh, but as the city grew, it ended up inhibiting its expansion. So they built upwards, and tenements became up to 15 stories high.
The tenement in Mary King’s Close was 12 stories high, and it was open to the sky for nearly 200 years, until 1753, when the top stories were demolished, and the bottom stories were buried under the city.
At the time, it was illegal to live underground but not to work underground. People did use the bottom floors as workshops until the City Chambers took over in 1897, using the space as storage for their city archives. In 1902, the last people living in the close moved out.
How to Visit Mary King’s Close
In 2003, the Real Mary King’s Close started offering tours of the 17th century street hidden underneath the Royal Mile.
This is now one of Edinburgh’s top attractions. Over 257,000 people visited Mary King’s Close in 2023, a record, according to Edinburgh Evening News.
Map of Underground Edinburgh
Differences between the Edinburgh Underground Tours
I’d separate all the underground tours into two categories: haunted or historical.
Haunted tours focus on scary stories or paranormal activities that have occurred underground.
Historical tours focus on the history of the underground areas and what it was like for people living there back in the day. It’s not meant to be a scary experience, however being underground can still freak people out. (One person in our group had to leave because of this.)
They are very different experiences so be mindful of the type of tour you book.
Which Should You Visit: The Vaults or Mary King’s Close?
The Vaults and Mary King’s Close are different experiences, so you could book both. However, if you are limited on time, here is a breakdown of the differences to help you decide which one to visit.
The Vaults (Mercat Tours)
Frequency: Operates 15+ tours a day
Duration of tour: 75 minutes
Cost: Starts from £22 per adult
Types of tours: Historic Underground, Ghostly Underground, and more
What to expect: Tour the underground Vaults and learn about its history and/or supernatural stories.
How to book: Book online.
Mary King’s Close
Frequency: Operates 40+ tours a day
Duration of tour: 60 minutes
Cost: Starts from £25 per adult
Types of tours: Standard guided tour, special Halloween tours, and more
What to expect: Tour the underground Mary King’s Close and hear stories and see the recreated dwellings (with mannequins and such) to visualize what life was like there.
How to book: Book online.
What I Did: What It’s Like Visiting the Vaults in Edinburgh
I visited the Vaults in Edinburgh, taking a historical tour with Mercat Tours to the Blair Street Vaults.
The tour starts above ground. You’ll meet at the Mercat Cross, where your tour guide will tell you about Old Town Edinburgh in the 18th century and explain how the Vaults came to be.
You’ll be given a headset to better hear the tour guide who has a microphone, and then you’ll descend down into the Vaults.
You’ll get to explore various rooms (or vaults), some larger than others, while standing in almost complete darkness, listening to stories of all that went down here.
Is it scary in the Vaults?
The tour I took was a historical tour, not a scary one, but it was still pretty eerie. One person in our group didn’t even make it down the stairs before she chickened out and turned back. My mom was also freaked out (she did, however, complete the tour but complained of a nausea-induced stomachache afterward).
My camera kept fogging up and turning off, something it’s never done before (and hasn’t done since).
I’m not sure if it was the humidity, the moisture in the air, or what, but it was strange.
Oddly enough, I watched an episode of “Ghost Adventures” where they spent the night in the Edinburgh Vaults, and their camera also kept fogging up and turning off. The hosts of the show claimed it was a supernatural disturbance.
Spooky, right?
If you are interested in the supernatural, then definitely book the haunted tour as they go into more details about all the supernatural stories that have occurred in the Vaults.
Tips for Visiting Underground Edinburgh
Book your tour ahead of time. Visiting the Vaults and Mary King’s Close are popular activities in Edinburgh, so they do get sold out. Book ahead of time to avoid disappointment.
Keep your supernatural tolerance in mind. If you don’t want to be scared, book the historical tour in the Vaults. (The standard tour of Mary King’s Close is also a historical tour, not a scary one.) If you can handle tales of the supernatural, then book the haunted tour! (The Real Mary King’s Close has its own special scary tour, especially for Halloween.)
Book a tour at night. This can be hard to do in the summer when the sun doesn’t set until past 10 p.m., but if you are visiting Edinburgh in any other season, the darkness of night adds to the experience.
Frequently Asked Questions about Visiting Edinburgh
Where to stay in Edinburgh?
Should you stay in Old Town or New Town?
I’ve stayed in both areas and can speak on the pros and cons of both. (However, for visiting underground Edinburgh, staying in Old Town will be much more convenient.)
In New Town: It is much quieter, less crowded, and more peaceful. It’s more residential than touristy. You will be farther away from the main attractions, so it will take extra time to get to the activities in Old Town. It is easy, however, to catch the tram or an Uber down to Princes Street.
Recommended hotels in New Town:
In Old Town: It is more lively and touristy, and you are right in the middle of all the action. It’s very convenient to get around. You can simply walk everywhere.
Recommended hotels in Old Town:
- Leonardo Royal Hotel (near the train station)
- Apex Grassmarket Hotel (near Grassmarket Square, for views of the castle)
- Apex City of Edinburgh Hotel (near Grassmarket Square, for views of the castle)
- The Witchery by the Castle (on the Royal Mile, for a splurge)
Where I stayed: I stayed in short-term rentals during both visits to Edinburgh.
On my first visit, I stayed in this 2-bedroom flat in the West End, a quiet and peaceful neighborhood in New Town, which was close to the West End tram stop and Dean Village.
On my second visit, I stayed for a week in a 1-bedroom flat in Grassmarket in Old Town. It was facing the Grassmarket Square, right next to the Vennel and Mary’s Milk Bar, with views of Edinburgh Castle out the window.
I’d recommend both!
What to pack to visit Edinburgh?
Warm, waterproof wear
If you’re visiting Edinburgh during its cold and rainy season (almost every month of the year besides a few weeks in summer), you should definitely bring a warm waterproof jacket and waterproof walking boots.
- This waterproof jacket and these waterproof boots I took with me to Scotland helped us explore no matter the weather. We walked around Edinburgh in the rain and snow, during foggy mornings and chilly evenings, and enjoyed it all. Be prepared for rainy weather, and dress for it, so you don’t miss out.
- Also consider bringing fleece-lined leggings — I loved this pair I packed!
Favorite travel essentials
- I really recommend these compression packing cubes. They’re very thick and durable and allow you to pack more than you expect.
- I also love this travel backpack that opens like a suitcase, fits almost as much as a carry-on, and has tons of pockets as well as a strap to attach to your luggage handle. It makes traveling so much easier and more organized. It also fits nicely under the airplane seats.
- I bring this AirFly receiver for AirPods with me on long-haul flights, so I can connect to the plane’s video screen with my own AirPods.
- I no longer hop on a flight without wearing my Sockwell compression socks because they really do help relieve/prevent leg cramps from sitting so long in one place. I have the lotus pattern, but there are other patterns to choose from, such as this cat pattern or this flower pattern. See all sock patterns in the Sockwell storefront.
- For Americans, I recommend getting the Capital One Venture X credit card to relax and eat free food in select airport lounges. I’ve had my Capital One Venture X credit card for a few years now, and accessing airport lounges is my absolute favorite perk of the card. Every lounge is different, but most have a buffet available where you can eat and drink to your heart’s content. The annual fee of this card is high, but it evens out with the $300 annual travel credit and 10,000 anniversary miles you get (on top of lounge access and free TSA PreCheck or Global Entry)!
Other Posts to Help You Plan Your Trip to Scotland
3 Day Edinburgh Itinerary: Ultimate Guide for First Timers
Create Your Own Harris Tweed Bag in the Islander Edinburgh Workshop
17 Best Things to Do in Edinburgh For Free
20 Best Places to Visit in New Town Edinburgh
10 Best Places for Afternoon Tea in Edinburgh (I Tried 4!)
Is a Day Trip to the Scottish Highlands from Edinburgh Worth It?
20 Best Things to Do in Inverness, Scotland
Day Trip from Inverness to Dunrobin Castle (and Dornoch)
All About the 2-Day Isle of Skye Tour from Inverness
Guide to Visiting Dunvegan Castle on Isle of Skye
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