With only three days in Edinburgh, you’ll need to know which places in Edinburgh are worth it and which ones aren’t. In this 3 day Edinburgh itinerary, I’ll help you explore the must-see highlights as well as the hidden gems of both Old Town and New Town in Edinburgh.

I first visited Edinburgh in 2022, and then I returned again in 2023-24 because I couldn’t get enough. I tried to do as much as possible, and I’ve shared in this post my favorite recommendations so you can make the most of your time in Edinburgh.

Edinburgh is a beautiful city in Scotland replete with medieval and Georgian buildings, castles, and cobblestone roads. A visit to Edinburgh will stay with you long after you leave its ancient streets.

Edinburgh is my favorite city in the whole world — and I hope I can make it yours, too.

author and her mom standing in front of arthur's seat at Calton Hill
Calton Hill, View of Arthur’s Seat
Table of Contents Show

How Many Days in Edinburgh?

Three days is the minimum amount of time to spend in Edinburgh. Of course, more is better, but any less and you’d miss out on too much.

With three full days in Edinburgh you can see all the highlights in Old Town the first two days and then explore New Town on the third day.

view of edinburgh castle from St Cuthbert's Kirkyard
St Cuthbert’s Kirkyard, View of Edinburgh Castle

3 Day Edinburgh Itinerary Overview

Day 1: Old Town — Harry Potter Walking Tour, Greyfriars Kirkyard, National Museum of Scotland, Victoria Street, Edinburgh Castle, Writers Museum, The Vennel and Flodden Wall, Afternoon Tea at Signet Library, The Scotsman Picturehouse

Day 2: Old Town — Palace of Holyroodhouse, Arthur’s Seat, Department of Magic, Islander Workshop, Museum of Edinburgh, St. Giles Cathedral, Underground Tour

Day 3: New Town — Calton Hill, Scottish National Portrait Gallery, Circus Lane, Dean Village, Royal Botanic Garden, Waterstones Cafe, St. Cuthbert’s Kirkyard

Day 1 of 3 Days in Edinburgh Itinerary: Explore Old Town Edinburgh

Do an Old Town or Harry Potter Walking Tour

Start your Edinburgh adventure with a walking tour to get better acquainted with the city. I’ve gone on both an Old Town walking tour and a Harry Potter walking tour in Edinburgh and would recommend either.

The Harry Potter walking tour and the Old Town walking tour follow a similar route but focus on different topics.

  • The Old Town walking tour focuses on the history of Edinburgh and interesting, true stories behind some of the iconic landmarks.
  • The Harry Potter walking tour focuses on the life of J.K. Rowling and how Edinburgh inspired her to write the Harry Potter series.

I booked both the free Harry Potter walking tour and free Old Town walking tour with City Explorers. City Explorers meets on the Royal Mile and can be spotted by their big yellow umbrellas.

You can also book the free Potter Trail Tour at pottertrail.com, which meets at the Greyfriars Bobby statue, just outside the Greyfriars Kirkyard. (I would have liked to take this tour but it sadly wasn’t running in the winter when I visited.)

For both tour companies, you do need to book your spot in advance.

Is it really free? While both tour companies advertise their walking tours as free, note that the guides will ask for tips at the end of the tour. They suggest anything from $10 to $20 a person, whatever you can pay and whatever you feel the tour was worth. You don’t technically have to pay, but do bring cash in case you like the tour enough to tip.

group gathering around walking tour leader in edinburgh
Old Town Walking Tour, City Explorers

Walk around Greyfriars Kirkyard

Edinburgh is a city where the living and the dead exist side by side. Graveyards can be found around town, and Greyfriars Kirkyard is one of the most famous graveyards in Scotland, if not the world.

Haunted or not, the Greyfriars Kirkyard has been around since the seventeenth century. The land had formerly been a Franciscan monastery, hence the name “friar,” before it was converted to a gravesite.

Greyfriars Kirkyard is open 24 hours, but choose wisely whether to visit at night.

You might be wondering why visit a graveyard at all?

  • Harry Potter fans can find the grave of “Thomas Riddle” and wander the tombstones as J. K. Rowling once did. Did you know J. K. Rowling often walked about Greyfriars Kirkyard for inspiration? It’s true.
  • You can also visit the statue of Greyfriars Bobby, a dog who guarded his owner’s grave for 14 years until his death in 1871. People leave sticks for Bobby to play with in the yard. Perhaps you’ll see his ghost running around.

Note that both the Old Town walking tour and Harry Potter walking tour either start or end here in the kirkyard. So if you do a walking tour, you are sure to at least pass through Greyfriars Kirkyard. Do stick around to explore more once the walking tour is over.

Photo of Greyfriars Kirkyard, a cemetery. Tombstones on a grassy field. Behind the tombstones are old buildings.
Greyfriars Kirkyard

Check Out the Free National Museum of Scotland

There are plenty of free museums in Edinburgh, known as the first city of literature. You won’t have time for all of them today or during your trip, but here is my first suggestion based on proximity.

Stop in to see Edinburgh’s collection of art, animals, and cultural artifacts at the National Museum of Scotland. This museum is right across the street from Greyfriars Kirkyard, and has the nearest public restrooms.

It can get busy in this museum, but the crowds thin out as you explore the upper floors. The architecture in this museum is beautiful, so I’d recommend, in the least, stopping in to see the building. It is free, after all!

We did a brief walk through of the museum, but, to be honest, nothing really stuck out to us. You won’t have to spend too much time here, unless the collection interests you, of course.

A bonus: There is a seventh-floor rooftop viewing platform at the National Museum of Scotland, which offers 360-degree views of the city. However, I’m not sure if this is open all the time or not. When I visited I couldn’t figure out how to get to the rooftop. If someone knows, feel free to leave a comment!

author looking out at the National Museum of Scotland
National Museum of Scotland

Explore Victoria Street

Victoria Street was named after none other than Queen Victoria. It was built between 1829 and 1834 as Edinburgh aimed to improve access to Old Town. Now Victoria Street is a world-famous cobblestone street of colorful shops that winds down from the Royal Mile to Grassmarket.

It’s more recently been named the one and only inspiration of Diagon Alley in the Harry Potter books. Our walking tour guide had several points about why Victoria Street is Diagon Alley — the most obvious being that J. K. Rowling would have walked down this street nearly every day while writing the Harry Potter books.

Embrace the magic of Victoria Street and explore the shops and restaurants here. You’ll find:

  • The Enchanted Galaxy, a Harry Potter retailer.
  • Museum Context, a Harry Potter retailer. You’ll often see a queue of people waiting outside the store, just to enter.
  • The Elephant House, the newly moved cafe where J. K. Rowling famously wrote her first Harry Potter books. It’s original location was on the George IV Bridge, but it was unfortunately burnt down.

When’s the best time for photos? It can get crowded in the middle of the day, so try to take your photos in the morning.

Get a bird’s-eye view of Victoria Street from the Victoria Terrace, accessible via the staircase next to Walker Slater Menswear.

Author standing at Victoria Street in Edinburgh
Victoria Street
view of Victoria Street in Edinburgh from above
Victoria Street, from Victoria Terrace

Visit Edinburgh Castle

Edinburgh Castle sits on a hill, looming above the city. You can see it from Princes Street, Old Town, and various other places around Edinburgh. It is centuries old and the history that happened in the castle is simply fascinating. I’d definitely recommend paying the entrance fee to tour the castle.

Plus, the views from Edinburgh Castle are jaw dropping.

Get your tickets ahead of time as tickets were sold out the day we went, and many people were turned away. Luckily, we had booked our time slot weeks in advance.

Time your entry to the castle so that you don’t miss the 1 o’clock gun. As the name suggests, they shoot off a very large gun at 1 o’clock sharp, which is something you don’t hear every day.

Edinburgh Castle is on the Royal Mile, running down High Street, which is about 1.13 miles long.

It bookends one side of the Royal Mile on the west while Palace of Holyroodhouse book ends the east. Today you’ll visit Edinburgh Castle, and tomorrow you’ll visit Holyroodhouse.

author's hair getting blown about by wind at Edinburgh Castle
Edinburgh Castle
view from atop Edinburgh Castle
Edinburgh Castle

Check Out the Free Writers Museum

The Writers Museum is tucked inside the Lady Stair’s Close, just off the Royal Mile, and is something you definitely must see, especially if you’re a writer or are interested in Scottish literature.

It’s a small museum with three floors and a winding staircase but a gorgeous building nonetheless.

Each floor is dedicated to one of three featured Scottish writers — Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott, and Robert Louis Stevenson. There’s an impressive collection of items by these authors, such as their writing desks, first editions, and even locks of their hair.

I learned so much about these writers and came away quite inspired.

It’s free to enter, but donations are appreciated.

sign that says The Writers Museum in edinburgh
The Writers Museum
inside the writers museum in edinburgh
The Writers Museum

Take Photos of Edinburgh Castle at The Vennel

One of the best views of Edinburgh Castle as in The Vennel, a staircase in Grassmarket.

Head to the top of the staircase to see Edinburgh Castle on a hill framed by historic buildings and lampposts. What a shot!

Why is it called the Vennel? “Vennel” comes from an old French word “venelle” meaning “alley.” A vennel is different from a close, in that it’s a public way, not a private lane like a close.

The Vennel has become more popular in recent years as it’s made its rounds on social media. Try to get here either early in the morning or be patient to wait for your perfect shot without the crowds.

See the Flodden Wall at the Vennel

At the Vennel, you’ll also find parts of the historic Flodden Wall, which was built around Old Town in the 1500s to protect the city against an English invasion. At the time, Edinburgh’s population was only 10,000, but as the city grew, the walls proved to be a hindrance.

By the 1700s most of the 24-foot-tall wall had come to ruins.

What’s left of the wall today is protected as an historic monument.

So don’t miss it when visiting The Vennel!

author looking out at views at the Vennel in edinburgh
The Vennel
author's mom standing by the Flodden Wall
Flodden Wall
the vennel in edinburgh with views of the castle
The Vennel

Have Afternoon Tea at the Signet Library or The Witchery

Afternoon tea in Edinburgh is such a delight. I took tea three times during my trip to Edinburgh, and have the best recommendation for your trip, too.

The best afternoon tea in Edinburgh is at the Signet Library. It’s truly an exquisite experience with incredibly delicious food, beyond friendly staff, and the fanciest atmosphere you could ask for. It’s pricier than any other afternoon tea I found in Edinburgh but completely worth it.

Another great option for afternoon tea is at The Witchery by the Castle, an elaborate, atmospheric restaurant and hotel. Treat yourself to afternoon tea from 3 to 4 p.m. in either the original dining room or the secret garden room. We chose the secret garden room and loved it. The restaurant as a whole has a more gothic, witchy vibe, which is quite unique.

Read all my recommendations for the 10 best places for afternoon tea in Edinburgh.

Sign on the building that says the Witchery
The Witchery by the Castle
the author at her table in the Witchery by the Castle
The Witchery by the Castle

See a Movie at the Scotsman Picturehouse

Catching a movie at the Scotsman Picturehouse is a great low-energy activity to reserve for the end of the day or even the night that you arrive (hello, jet lag). The theater is so gorgeous, and the chairs are as comfy as they look.

The Scotsman Picturehouse is a one-room theater inside The Scotsman Hotel. Did you know The Scotsman Hotel used to be the home of The Scotsman newspaper? It’s a historic building with lots of charm.

The movies they show vary, but be sure to reserve your tickets in advance. They sell out quickly.

You’ll be able to select your seat when you purchase your tickets.

Which seat should you choose? Because the theater is so small, any seat is a good seat. We were in the third row and had a great view. At the very back row are couches that seat two people, while every other chair is for one person.

You can also book a table at The Grand Cafe at the Scotsman before or after your movie and get 10% off your meal just by showing your movie tickets. We did this and felt it definitely added to the experience.

seats inside the scotsman picturehouse in edinburgh
The Scotsman Picturehouse
view from the author's third-row seat the scotsman picturehouse in edinburgh
The Scotsman Picturehouse

Day 2 of 3 Days in Edinburgh Itinerary: Explore More of Old Town Edinburgh

Hike to Arthur’s Seat

Arthur’s Seat is the highest point of a hill in Holyrood Park. Said hill is an extinct volcano that last erupted millions of years ago. Those who climb to the peak are treated with panoramic views of the city.

While the origin of the name remains a mystery, Arthur’s Seat looms high over Edinburgh, beckoning hikers.

I must confess that I wasn’t able to hike Arthur’s Seat either time I visited Edinburgh due to time constraints or weather. But it’s a top experience for most visitors to Edinburgh, so definitely add it to your list if you enjoy hiking.

Hike to Arthur’s Seat Stats

Length: 2.6 miles
Elevation gain: 885 feet
Difficulty: Moderate

Need an alternative to Arthur’s Seat? Try hiking to Calton Hill for similar views with a less strenuous climb. Plus, you’ll be able to see Arthur’s Seat very well from the vantage point of Calton Hill.

photo of arthur's seat, as seen from Calton Hill
Arthur’s Seat (viewed on Calton Hill)

Tour the Palace of Holyroodhouse

The Palace of Holyroodhouse is the castle on the other end of the Royal Mile, and it’s the official royal residence whenever the reigning monarch is visiting Scotland. If you take a tour, you’ll walk through quite a bit of the castle, nearly everything on the second floor (or the first floor as they’d say in the UK) as well as a few rooms on the ground floor and the gardens outside.

It has more of a home-y feel than Edinburgh Castle, which is a fortress, and some interesting history as well. You’ll walk through Mary Queen of Scots’ suites and the rooms where Queen Elizabeth II entertained world leaders.

I was a bit shocked when a waitress, a local to Edinburgh, told us she’d never visited the Palace of Holyroodhouse before. Perhaps it’s a touristy thing to do, but nevertheless, it’s worth a visit.

If you’re interested in art, be sure to also check out The King’s Gallery for an additional charge.

author and her mom standing in front of the Palace of Holyroodhouse in edinburgh
Palace of Holyroodhouse
inside a room in the Palace of Holyroodhouse
Palace of Holyroodhouse
inside the dining room of the Palace of Holyroodhouse, portraits of Queen Elizabeth II hang on the wall
Palace of Holyroodhouse

Check Out the Free Museum of Edinburgh

The Museum of Edinburgh is a small, free museum near the Palace of Holyroodhouse on the Royal Mile. It has a collection of artifacts related to Edinburgh and its history. It won’t take more than a half hour to peruse this museum, so pop in if you have some time to kill.

Tour St. Giles Cathedral

St. Giles Cathedral is great to visit while you’re exploring the Royal Mile. It doesn’t take too long to tour the cathedral, and it really is stunning inside.

It’s open for visitors weekdays from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., Saturday 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., and Sunday 1 to 5 p.m. It’s free to tour but donations are welcome.

Concoct a Magic Potion at the Department of Magic

The Department of Magic allows you to create magical potions that bubble and smoke. Okay, they’re not really magical potions — they’re just drinks. But suspend your disbelief for a moment and it’s easy to imagine you’re in a magical tavern or a Hogwarts potions class.

In reality, the Department of Magic is a basement-level pub off Blair Street in Old Town. You need to book your table in advance. Inside, the room has been truly transformed with whimsical decorations, wooden tables, and quirky lanterns.

I’d recommend booking the “Magical Potion & Smoking Magic Shot.” With that, you’ll get an instructions sheet to guide you in concocting your potion, and once you’ve finished, a chest of smoking shots will arrive.

There are several types of potions you can make, such as liquid gold or a love potion. The instructions in putting them together are fun — close one eye, shout out a word, write down someone’s name. It all adds to the magic.

The “potions” you make can either be alcoholic or non-alcoholic drinks. Do they taste good? Well, I can only speak for the non-alcoholic drinks, but I found them to be too sweet. I enjoyed the (non-alcoholic) shots much more.

One tip if you’re planning on recording or photographing your potion making, go one at a time. Ask if the trays can come out in turns. Because if you wait too long to put your potion together it will go stale and not bubble and smoke like it’s supposed to. I believe much of that is dry ice, which does melt. But if that’s not a concern and you don’t mind concocting the potions with your group all at the same time, don’t worry about it.

You can also order a butterbeer to complete the experience.

author holding up a glass of butterbeer in the department of magic in edinburgh
Department of Magic
a chest of smoking shots on the table in the department of magic
Department of Magic
liquid gold potion instructions sheet next to a tray of supplies to create potion in the department of magic
Department of Magic

Create Your Own Tweed Bag in the Islander Workshop

In nearly every souvenir store in Edinburgh, you’ll see Harris Tweed bags, Islander bags, and knock-offs. Rather than simply buying one, how about creating your own custom Islander tweed bag in the Islander Edinburgh Workshop?

I enrolled in the Islander Workshop Experience in Edinburgh and had an incredible time putting together my very own tweed backpack, complete with mismatched straps.

It was such a fun experience, and our workshop instructor, Jill, was absolutely phenomenal. We learned so much about Islander, tweed in Scotland, and how bags like these are created.

The workshop lasts an hour and the time goes by so fast. Read my complete guide to the Islander Edinburgh Workshop for everything you need to know about this incredible workshop.

outside the Islander shop on Candlemaker Row in Edinburgh
Islander Workshop Experience
author holding up her islander bag in the workshop
Islander Workshop Experience

Go on an Underground Tour

A city so old is bound to have rumors of ghosts and spirits, and Edinburgh has them aplenty. Tales of ghosts roaming the castle dungeons and city cemeteries are rooted in real history. Underground, dark passageways, once home to the poor and nefarious, can still be accessed today. And I’d really recommend venturing into them on an underground tour.

There are three tours that take you underground:

  • Tour the underground Blair Street Vaults. Mercat Tours Historic Underground Tour is a 75-minute tour that takes you into the Blair Street Vaults, a section of the South Bridge Vaults, and shares so many fascinating stories of life in Edinburgh underground. Mercat Tours is the only tour operator that can take you into the Blair Street Vaults as they own the land. We did this tour and loved it. Mercat also offers a ghost tour for those who are interested in a spooky experience. Either way, book the tour in the evening as darkness descends.
  • Tour underground Mary King’s Close. The Real Mary King’s Close is a one-hour guided tour through a 17th century street hidden underneath the Royal Mile. Reviews say it’s a bit cheesy and touristy. We didn’t do this tour, so let me know if that’s true or not. Would love to go again one day to see for myself.
  • Tour other sections of the underground South Bridge Vaults. Some walking tour companies, such as Auld Reekie Tours, will take you to other sections of the South Bridge Vaults, such as near Cowgate. Auld Reekie Tours offers a late-night terror tour of the Vaults in addition to their original Vaults tour.

Read more about Edinburgh’s underground world and how to tour it in my post, “Is There an Underground City in Edinburgh? (Guide + Map).

the underground blair street vaults in edinburgh
Mercat Underground Tours, Blair Street Vaults

Day 3 of 3 Days in Edinburgh Itinerary: Explore New Town Edinburgh

Don’t miss New Town when visiting Edinburgh. It’s an incredibly beautiful part of Edinburgh with Georgian architecture and gorgeous green spaces. New Town was built over 200 years ago but still keeps its name. It was originally made for the wealthy of Edinburgh who tired of Old Town and wanted nicer accommodations.

I’ve listed below the top recommendations for you to do in New Town, ones you simply can’t miss.

For even MORE recommendations, see my blog post, “20 Best Places to Visit in New Town Edinburgh.”

Climb Calton Hill

Start the morning with a short climb up Calton Hill. If you’ve seen photos of Edinburgh, chances are that Calton Hill was in one of them. It’s an iconic landmark of central Edinburgh, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the home of several monuments.

It only takes a few minutes to get to the summit but once there, you’ll find epic views of the city.

Calton Hill was a highlight of our trip to Edinburgh, something you definitely can’t miss! It’s also a great alternative to hiking Arthur’s Seat. You’ll get similar panoramic views but without a strenuous hike.

There are a few staircases to reach Calton Hill, but you can also take the stair-free circular route, which gently slopes up to the top of the hill.

author looking out at the view from calton hill in edinburgh
Calton Hill
view from calton hill
Calton Hill

View Artwork in the Scottish National Portrait Gallery

The Scottish National Portrait Gallery is a gorgeous museum full of portraits of famous Scots. It’s free to enter, and I’d definitely recommend stopping in when you’re in New Town.

It’s much bigger than it looks with multiple floors and gallery rooms. The architecture itself is beautiful, too. We loved visiting on a rainy day because it gave us some reprieve from the weather.

interior of the Scottish National Portrait Gallery
Scottish National Portrait Gallery
portrait of Mary Queen of Scots in the Scottish National Portrait Gallery
Scottish National Portrait Gallery

Visit Circus Lane

Circus Lane may be just a street of houses, but it’s the most picturesque street of houses in Edinburgh. Is it worth visiting? Yes! I’d say so. But do go into it with the understanding that it’s just a street that you walk on. There’s nothing else really to do aside from enjoying the scenery and taking photographs.

Circus Lane was built in the 18th century when curved streets were in fashion. This was a lane of mews, meant for horses owned by the wealthy.

There are so many unique angles to photograph, so definitely walk back and forth a few times. Notice the clock tower, flowers, and shrubbery. But do be respectful as it is a residential area.

It shouldn’t take more than 10-15 minutes to visit, unless you get caught up in the photography, which is somewhat expected. It’s just so beautiful!

view of mews in Circus Lane
Circus Lane
author standing in Circus Lane
Circus Lane

Visit the Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh

Take a free stroll through the eight-plus different gardens in the Edinburgh Royal Botanic Garden. You’ll not only see flowers and trees but amazing views of the city skyline.

Every time I’ve visited Edinburgh, I’ve sworn to go to the Royal Botanic Garden, but I still haven’t made it out yet. It’s on my list, though, for next time.

Walk around Dean Village and Water of Leith Walkway

Dean Village is a charming part of Edinburgh, only a few minutes from the city center. The village was once a mill town back in the 1500s. Stone houses surround the peaceful, flowing river, called Water of Leith. Alongside the river is a 12-mile path where many locals jog.

We spent more than two hours exploring Dean Village because we loved it so much. Do not miss this spot!

photo of dean village and water of leith in edinburgh
Dean’s Village
photo of a bridge in dean's village in edinburgh
Dean’s Village

Visit Waterstones Cafe for Views of Edinburgh Castle

The Waterstones Cafe on Princes Street has one of the most beautiful views of Edinburgh Castle. Once inside the bookstore, head up the stairs to the cafe, and grab a cup of tea or coffee. There are only 6 tables in the area by the window, so you may not get to sit in one of them unless you’re early or very lucky.

When we arrived, all these tables by the window were taken, but once I’d ordered my chai latte and had it in hand, I went down to the window area to wait and look out at the views. Within a few minutes, someone started packing up, and I got to swoop right in.

Take a break from your whirlwind day exploring New Town at the Waterstones Cafe. The views could not be better.

You can also try your luck at Starbucks, which is down the street, and also has great views of Edinburgh Castle.

Cafes with Amazing Views of Edinburgh Castle

  • Waterstones Cafe, Princes Street
  • Starbucks, Princes Street
view from the window of Waterstones Cafe, looking out to Edinburgh Castle
Waterstones Cafe

Visit St. Cuthbert’s Kirkyard and Princes Street Gardens

Before leaving New Town, head down to the St. Cuthbert’s Kirkyard, for even more incredible views of Edinburgh Castle. Graveyards aren’t typically considered a sightseeing place, but the graveyards in Edinburgh are historic, and this one is no different.

St. Cuthbert’s Kirkyard is near Princes Street Gardens. It’s easy to miss if you’re just walking by, but don’t miss this. Take a wander around the ancient tombstones and look up to admire the castle. It’s a great area for photography.

If the parish is open, feel free to tour the inside. The original church that stood here fell into ruins in the 18th century but it was eventually rebuilt in the New Town style. It’s very grand. Did you know that mystery writer Agatha Christie was married here?

author standing in St. Cuthbert's Kirkyard with edinburgh castle in the background
St. Cuthbert’s Kirkyard
view between two gravestones with edinburgh castle in the background
St. Cuthbert’s Kirkyard

Should You Do a New Town Walking Tour?

I did a New Town Edinburgh walking tour and would not recommend it. They packed more than 3 miles of sightseeing into a little over an hour, so it felt more like a 5K run than a tour to learn about the city. Everyone was struggling to keep up with the tour guide, and I barely got to hear anything that he said. As an alternative, visit New Town at your own pace. I hope you enjoy it as much as we did!

Map of Activities Mentioned in This 3 Day Edinburgh Itinerary

What to Eat in Edinburgh

Haggis: One of the quintessential Scottish foods is haggis, a pudding containing sheep liver and lungs, cooked with onion and spices. It’s readily available at almost any restaurant, and there’s even a vegetarian version so the non-meat-eaters aren’t left out.

Full Scottish Breakfast: A full Scottish breakfast usually includes haggis as well as eggs, sausage, black pudding, baked beans, toast, mushrooms, fried tomatoes, and potato scones. Most restaurants will also offer a vegetarian version. Don’t skip breakfast in Scotland. We loved the Scottish breakfast at the Coffee Mill Cafe in Edinburgh and at Deacon’s House Cafe.

Whisky: While you’re here, try the whisky — you’ll know it’s authentically Scottish if “whisky” is spelled without an “e.” You can visit the Scotch Whisky Experience on the Royal Mile, or there are also several distilleries to tour. If you visit a pub, I’d recommend trying a whisky liqueur called Drambuie, which is a mix of whisky, heather honey, herbs, and spices, and is truly an experience.

Whisky Ice Cream: For those who aren’t big drinkers, perhaps you’d like whisky ice cream, sold in the small town of Pitlochry about an hour’s drive outside Edinburgh.

Neeps and Tatties: You must try the neeps and tatties! It’s a traditional Scottish dish consisting of mashed turnips and potatoes, usually served alongside haggis. Go to McGonagall’s pub in Edinburgh, they serve neeps and tatties with a whisky sauce that is to die for. (They even serve a version with vegetarian haggis.)

Scottish Porridge: Okay, hear me out. The Scottish porridge is actually really good! It can be served with honey and fruit, and it tastes different than American oatmeal because the oats are slowly ground instead of rolled. You have to try it.

Sticky Toffee Pudding: This is a dessert served at many pubs that is really delicious. It’s not an American pudding, but rather a sponge soaked in toffee sauce often served with ice cream. Definitely order some after dinner! We tried sticky toffee pudding at The Grand Cafe at the Scotsman and loved it.

Meal Deals: If you are more of a budget traveler, then definitely take advantage of the meal deals in the UK. You’ll find them at most grocery stores, such as Sainsbury’s and Tesco. With a meal deal, you can choose an entree (sandwich, salad, wrap, etc.), a side (crisps, fruit, etc.), and a drink (water, soda, juice) for only £3. Some items may have an extra cost, but it’s a great deal nonetheless.

Tap Water: At restaurants, you’ll often be asked if you want sparkling or still water. How to respond? NEITHER. Say you’d like tap water! Tap water is free, and the tap water in Scotland is very good. Both the still and sparking water are fancy bottled water that will cost you at least £5 a bottle. My mom would rack up a hefty water bill at restaurants because she kept asking for still water when we meant tap. It became a running joke between us. (“Are you gonna spend £20 on water again?”)

full scottish breakfast from the Coffee Mill Cafe in Edinburgh
Full Scottish Breakfast, Coffee Mill Cafe, Edinburgh
author holding up a cup of whisky ice cream from Pitlochry
Whisky Ice Cream, Pitlochry

Recommended Restaurants

Here are the restaurants we tried and loved while in Edinburgh.

  • Alandas (for hot chocolate)
  • Coffee Mill Cafe
  • Deacon House Cafe
  • Devil’s Advocate
  • The Grand Cafe at The Scotsman
  • McGonagall’s
  • The Witchery by the Castle

Where to Stay in Edinburgh

Should you stay in Old Town or New Town?

I’ve stayed in both areas and can speak on the pros and cons of both.

In New Town: It is much quieter, less crowded, and more peaceful. It’s more residential than touristy. You will be farther away from the main attractions, so it will take extra time to get to the activities in Old Town. It is easy, however, to catch the tram or an Uber down to Princes Street.

Recommended hotels in New Town:

In Old Town: It is more lively and touristy, and you are right in the middle of all the action. It’s very convenient to get around. You can simply walk everywhere.

Recommended hotels in Old Town:

Where I stayed: I stayed in short-term rentals during both visits to Edinburgh.

On my first visit, I stayed in this 2-bedroom flat in the West End, a quiet and peaceful neighborhood in New Town, which was close to the West End tram stop and Dean Village.

On my second visit, I stayed for a week in a 1-bedroom flat in Grassmarket in Old Town. It was facing the Grassmarket Square, right next to the Vennel and Mary’s Milk Bar, with views of Edinburgh Castle out the window.

I’d recommend both!

view of new town Georgian buildings from window of flat in west end
View from our flat in West End, New Town
view of edinburgh castle from a window of a flat
View from our flat in Grassmarket, Old Town

When to Go to Edinburgh

Anytime is a good time to visit Edinburgh. I visited in both summer and winter (for Hogmanay) and loved both visits. Be prepared for rain any time of the year.

Winter: Hogmanay, a Scottish word for “last day of the year,” is celebrated a few days before New Year’s, and it includes a torchlight procession, a street party, and fireworks. December also includes the Christmas Festival featuring Christmas markets, ice skating, and other winter activities. During Hogmanay, hotel prices are 3x as expensive, but you’ll get to experience the festivities. It’s very cold in the winter, so pack your winter coats.

Summer: The famous Royal Military Tattoo and Fringe Festival both usually occur in August. It will be much more crowded and expensive during these festivals. I visited in July, well before these festivals, and found that it wasn’t very crowded at all — especially in the mornings — and the accommodation prices were reasonable.

Spring: In spring, the cherry blossoms will be blooming in the Meadows alongside other flowers around town. The weather will be warming up and it won’t be quite as crowded as summer.

Fall: In autumn, Edinburgh’s trees will be covered in beautiful orange and red leaves, lending off eerie, autumn vibes. The weather will be cooler and crowds dimming out.

Getting Around Edinburgh: Do You Need a Car?

No, you definitely don’t need a car in Edinburgh. Edinburgh is an incredibly walkable city. We were able to get to every activity in Edinburgh via walking or taking the tram. One or two times we had to book an Uber, but otherwise it’s so easy to get around!

view from Calton Hill in Edinburgh
Calton Hill, View of Edinburgh Castle

Interesting Facts about Edinburgh

  • Half a million people call Edinburgh home, and over a million visit it every year. Once you leave Old Town and get out of the touristy areas, Edinburgh is a surprisingly peaceful city.
  • Edinburgh is known as the greenest city in the United Kingdom as nearly half of it (49.2%) is classified as “green space.” Trees line many streets and walkways, and pollution levels are low with more people walking than driving.
  • Both Old Town and New Town have been designated as UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
  • Hundreds of women were burned on the Royal Mile during the seventeenth century witch hunt.
  • Edinburgh was once nicknamed “Auld Reekie” due to the coal-fire smoke that hovered thick over the city and the waste tossed onto the streets and the nearby loch (where the Princes Street Gardens is today).
  • The oldest part of Edinburgh, aptly named Old Town, dates to the seventh century.

Frequently Asked Questions about Visiting Edinburgh for 3 Days

Is 3 days too much in Edinburgh?

Never. I’d argue that 3 days is hardly enough. There is so much to do in Edinburgh, you will be wishing you stayed longer!

What to see in Edinburgh in 2 days?

If you only have two days, I’d spend one day in Old Town and one day in New Town Edinburgh. There’s a lot to do in Old Town, so you will have to prioritize. Pick the things to do that sound most interesting to you!

What is your favorite place to visit in Edinburgh?

It’s so hard to choose, but I would have to say Dean Village.

What is a must to see if you’re only in Edinburgh for 1 day?

If you’re only in Edinburgh for one day, I would stick to the Old Town. Explore the Royal Mile, visit Edinburgh Castle, and take a Harry Potter walking tour.

What are the famous tourist spots in Edinburgh?

  • The Royal Mile
  • Edinburgh Castle
  • Greyfriars Kirkyard
  • Arthur’s Seat
  • Palace of Holyroodhouse
  • Calton Hill

What not to do in Edinburgh?

Personally, I am not interested in visiting places that seem like it could be in any city. For example, a lot of tourists visit Camera Obscura & World of Illusions in Edinburgh, but why? It’s expensive, and there’s nothing special about it. If you come all the way to Scotland, might as well spend your time doing things you can only do here.

What are some tips for exploring Edinburgh solo and on a budget?

If you’re on a budget, you’re in luck because Edinburgh has SO many things to do for free. Many of their museums are absolutely free. I’ve written about my favorite things to do for free in Edinburgh, so definitely check that out.

What should I pack to visit Edinburgh?

Warm, waterproof wear

If you’re visiting Edinburgh during its cold and rainy season (almost every month of the year besides a few weeks in summer), you should definitely bring a warm waterproof jacket and waterproof walking boots.

  • This waterproof jacket and these waterproof boots I took with me to Scotland helped us explore no matter the weather. We walked around Edinburgh in the rain and snow, during foggy mornings and chilly evenings, and enjoyed it all. Be prepared for rainy weather, and dress for it, so you don’t miss out.
  • Also consider bringing fleece-lined leggings — I loved this pair I packed!

Favorite travel essentials

  • I really recommend these compression packing cubes. They’re very thick and durable and allow you to pack more than you expect.
  • I also love this travel backpack that opens like a suitcase, fits almost as much as a carry-on, and has tons of pockets as well as a strap to attach to your luggage handle. It makes traveling so much easier and more organized. It also fits nicely under the airplane seats.
  • I bring this AirFly receiver for AirPods with me on long-haul flights, so I can connect to the plane’s video screen with my own AirPods.
  • I no longer hop on a flight without wearing my Sockwell compression socks because they really do help relieve/prevent leg cramps from sitting so long in one place. I have the lotus pattern, but there are other patterns to choose from, such as this cat pattern or this flower pattern. See all sock patterns in the Sockwell storefront.
  • For Americans, I recommend getting the Capital One Venture X credit card to relax and eat free food in select airport lounges. I’ve had my Capital One Venture X credit card for a few years now, and accessing airport lounges is my absolute favorite perk of the card. Every lounge is different, but most have a buffet available where you can eat and drink to your heart’s content. The annual fee of this card is high, but it evens out with the $300 annual travel credit and 10,000 anniversary miles you get (on top of lounge access and free TSA PreCheck or Global Entry)!

Other Posts to Help You Plan Your Trip to Scotland

17 Best Things to Do in Edinburgh For Free

Create Your Own Harris Tweed Bag in the Islander Edinburgh Workshop

Is There an Underground City in Edinburgh? (Guide + Map)

10 Best Places for Afternoon Tea in Edinburgh (I Tried 4!)

Complete Guide to Joining the Edinburgh Torchlight Procession during Hogmanay

20 Best Places to Visit in New Town Edinburgh

Is a Day Trip to the Scottish Highlands from Edinburgh Worth It?

Is It Worth Going Inside Eilean Donan Castle in Scotland?

20 Best Things to Do in Inverness, Scotland

Day Trip from Inverness to Dunrobin Castle (and Dornoch)

All About the 2-Day Isle of Skye Tour from Inverness

Guide to Visiting Dunvegan Castle on Isle of Skye

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